Alice in Wonderland on Lake Como

A pathway runs along a line of trees at Villa Melzi in Bellagio on Lake Como. September 21, 2013. Photo by Trisha Thomas
A pathway runs along a line of trees at Villa Melzi in Bellagio on Lake Como. September 21, 2013. Photo by Trisha Thomas

This past weekend I joined my husband at a conference in Varenna on Lake Como giving me the opportunity to discover, once again, why Italy is known as the Bel Paese (The Beautiful Country).  Every time I step out from my crazy little cocoon in Rome, running from work to family duties, I find that Italy is dotted with jewels, precious little towns across the country from Sicily to the  Amalfi Coast to the Cinque Terre,  Lake Como, and the Italian Alps.  This in addition to the well-known spots– Venice, Florence, and Rome.

My husband and I took my favorite train — the Red Arrow (Freccia Rossa) from Rome to Milan and then a little local train to Varenna.  I love the Freccia Rossa because it has free Wi-Fi so in the three or four hours it takes me to get from point A to point B in Italy, I can usually whip off a blog post, freeing me up to ignore my lap-top computer once I reach my destination.  The Freccia Rossa is usually on time, unlike the local train from Milan to Varenna that was an hour late.

As we neared Varenna my husband sighed and said it was nearly 8pm, we would probably miss the conference dinner.  I stifled a smile and thought eagerly about a romantic dinner at a lakeside restaurant.  No such luck.  My husband flew out of the train station, cell phone in hand, called a colleague and said, “If you haven’t gotten to the “primo” (first course) yet, hold two places for my wife and me.”  We then charged through the dark streets of Varenna dragging our rolling suitcases and computer bags behind us until we reached the posh, if slightly dowdy, Victoria Hotel.  We were given a fabulous room with a balcony with a spectacular view out over Lake Como.  But there was no time for me to revel in the view of the full moon, shimmering lake and lights of the little villages on the other side.  No,  I had to throw on an elegant dress, heels, lipstick and rush out to the conference dinner.   My husband seems to enjoy tossing me into these sink or swim social situations so I was given a seat next to a 60-something gentleman and as my husband dove into conversation with colleagues on his right, I turned to the gentleman on my left and tried to engage in cordial conversation.

The gentleman told me that he had come up earlier on the train with all the professors who had been attending the ceremony of the anniversary of the death of someone very important whose name I knew I should recognize but I didn’t.  So I assumed he was a professor and asked him what he teaches.  “Ah, I’m not working anymore,” he said, “can’t be bothered with it, actually I’m fed up with it all.”

“Oh really, ” I replied, “you don’t enjoy teaching?” I asked, inadvertently sticking a pin in my conversational life raft.  He looked at me pitifully and said,  “You said you are a journalist?”

“Yes,” I answered.  “And what do you cover?”  he continued. Phew, someone showing some interest in me, “Oh, the Vatican, Italian politics, the Venice Film Festival…” just about anything that is happening in Italy that is of interest abroad,” I sputtered cheerfully.

“Well, I am the former Minister of Justice,” he declared solemnly.  “Oh for goodness sake, ” I thought.  “Can someone please give me a heads-up before seating me next to a former government minister or other “pezzi grossi” (big shots) before I make a “brutta figura” out of myself! (See Blog Post on Bella Figura)

A little note in self-defense, since I came to Italy 20 years ago there have been eight different Prime Ministers, 13 different governments, each with 21 Ministers.   If my calculations are correct, that would mean over the past 20 years there have been 273 Italian government Ministers and most of them have been older, white men.  Actually there have surely been less than 273 because there have been some repeats in the same job, or individuals who held several different ministerial seats. (When they are not white men, I tend to notice — see blog posts on the current Minister of Integration Cecile Kyenge, Call me Black and Racial Slurs and Death Threats in Italy) My work usually requires that I follow the Foreign Minister, the Defense Minister, the Interior Minister, the Minister of the Economy and I have interviewed Italian Ministers of Sport, Culture, Environment and Equal Opportunity, but I have never interviewed an Italian Minister of Justice. Still, no excuses, I should have known who he was.

All this brought back memories of another dinner with another former government minister (See blog post: The Tailhook and the Elegant Dinner Party)

To cover up for my blatant gaffe at not recognizing this man, I began firing off questions asking, with the most intense interest I could muster, his opinion on Berlusconi’s legal issues and the future of the Amanda Knox case.

For those who do not follow these things closely, Former Italian Prime Minister Silvio Berlusconi has been convicted of tax fraud and sentenced to four years in prison (the decision was upheld by Italy’s highest court on August 1st).  He will not go to prison because he is too old, so he can choose between house arrest and community service. Under a law passed last year banning anyone who has been convicted to more than two years in prison from parliament for six years,  Berlusconi should be kicked out of the Italian Senate where he holds a seat.  But a Senate panel has been going through endless discussions about whether or not to carry through with the “banishment” from the Senate.  The committee should make a recommendation in the next few weeks and eventually the entire Senate will vote on it.  Berlusconi is a powerful party leader whose party is part of the coalition government and if he gets kicked out he may just bring down the government, creating a situation of  political uncertainty and economic instability in a moment when Italy has been showing signs of slight economic recovery. (See my Blog Post on The End of Italy’s Bunga Bunga Era)

And on the Amanda Knox case, for those who are unaware, the final appeal is expected to start at the end of this month at a courthouse in Florence.  Amanda Knox will not be coming, and even if she were convicted it is unlikely that she would ever get extradited back to Italy.  (See my blog post The Amanda Knox Drama Continues).

Interestingly this former Justice Minister explained that Italy has a legal system that is very “garantista” that gives a huge emphasis to protecting (guaranteeing) the rights of the accused.  As he explained to me, Berlusconi has taken full advantage of the system to protect himself, and Amanda Knox will surely also come out clean.

Once I doggy-paddled my way through the dinner, I was no longer on bella figura wife duty.  So the next morning I set off to explore Varenna.  The whole area is spectacularly beautiful and so I will just share my photos with you.

A phantom at Vezio Castle above Lake Como. September 21, 2013. Photo by Trisha Thomas
A phantom at Vezio Castle above Lake Como. September 21, 2013. Photo by Trisha Thomas

My first stop — after a half-hour, steep climb up a narrow stone pathway– was at the Castle of Vezio which provided a spectacular panoramic view of that area of Lake Como.  Far below me I could see the little ferries making their way back and forth between Varenna, Bellagio, Menaggio, Tremezzo, and Comacina.  An artist has created what appeared to be papier-mache phantoms that were placed around the Castle and were somewhat disconcerting.   I also was slightly taken aback to see several falcons out in the Castle yard.  The Vezio Castle does training and care of birds of prey and tries to promote the art of Falconry. A Castle statement says that birds of prey were used as far back as the days of Attila the Hun.

Confessional in Church of Sant'Antonio Abate in Vezio, Italy, September 21, 2013. Photo by Trisha Thomas
Confessional in Church of Sant’Antonio Abate in Vezio, Italy, September 21, 2013. Photo by Trisha Thomas

Heading back down from the Castle I stopped in at the little church of Sant’Antonio Abate (Saint Anthony the Abbot,) and chatted with two men outside.  They told me they were two of the 50 remaining residents of Vezio and noted sadly that all the young people leave. This is a real problem for Italy.

I loved the little confessional in the church with its purple curtain and wondered what the 50 residents of Vezio might be confessing to the priest who came to their village. I asked the two old men why the statue inside had a pig beside it and they explained to me that Saint Anthony the Abbot is the patron saint of animals.

A statue of Saint Anthony the Abbot, Patron Saint of Domestic Animals in the Church of Sant'Antonio Abate. September 21, 2013. Photo by Trisha Thomas
A statue of Saint Anthony the Abbot, Patron Saint of Domestic Animals in the Church of Sant’Antonio Abate. September 21, 2013. Photo by Trisha Thomas

I stopped to take some photos of the terracotta roof-tops, a painted hotel sign and a Moto-Guzzi outside a local cafe.  I later learned that these famous motorcycles (for Italians they have a status similar to a Harley-Davidsons for Americans), were first produced in 1921 at a factory at Mandello di Lario, a little further down Lake Como from Varenna.

A view over the terracotta roof-tops of Varenna to Lake Como. September 21, 2013. Photo by Trisha Thomas
A view over the terracotta roof-tops of Varenna to Lake Como. September 21, 2013. Photo by Trisha Thomas
A Yello Moto Guzzi on a yellow line next to a yellow wall at a cafe' in Varenna on Lake Como.  September 21, 2013. Photo by Trisha Thomas
A Yellow Moto Guzzi on a yellow line next to a yellow wall at a cafe’ in Varenna on Lake Como. September 21, 2013. Photo by Trisha Thomas

In the afternoon my husband and I took the “batello” (ferry boat) over to the town of Bellagio where we visited the specatular gardens of the Villa Melzi.  This breath-takingly beautiful villa and surrounding gardens were built by the Duke of Lodi, Francesco Melzi D’Eril between 1808 and 1810.  I just happen to be reading Tolstoy’s “War and Peace” and am deep into Tolstoy’s description of Napoleon (a wretched, arrogant creep), only to find that a section of the Villa has a large bust of Napoleon and various drawings of the French leader and his generals. It turns out that the Duke of Lodi was the Vice President of the Republic of Italy under Napoleon.  When Napoleon and his army were approaching Moscow, the Russians set the city ablaze and disappeared.   In sharp contrast the Duke of Lodi appears to have welcomed the French Emperor with open arms and to have reaped the benefits.

I wish I could share more of Lake Como, but I had to get back on the Freccia Rossa and come back to Rome.

Note: I am particularly proud of the photo I took above of the pathway and the line of trees at Villa Melzi.  There is something surreal and Alice in Wonderland-ish about it. I took the photo at dusk and the colors are real, there are no filters on the photo. Since I’ve started this blog, I’ve been trying to learn from watching AP photographers and my blogger/photographer friend of Instagram fame, Nicolee Drake. See her website: Cucina Digitale or on Istagram/Twitter at @cucinadigitale

As someone who works in news, my tendency is to focus on people and action, watching Nicolee, I am learning to focus on small details, and interesting shapes and colors.

20 thoughts on “Alice in Wonderland on Lake Como”

  1. Oh Trisha- don’t be so hard on yourself. As a former reporter, I can remember a real faux-pas I made with the governor of N.J. when I referred to his wife as his daughter. He got a real laugh out of that while I was mortified. But we move on or we’d be paralyzed to talk to anyone.
    As you pointed out, there have been so many Italian ministers, who can keep them straight? You seem to have recovered well though.
    I am very interested in more details on Varenna, and will be emailing you separately on that. Who needs AP photographers? Your photo of the tree-lined path is beautiful.

    1. Wow! Calling the Governor’s wife his daughter is pretty bad. Was she that much younger? I am glad I am not the only one who makes gaffes. Yes, as a journalist I am sure you know what it is like to be thrown into all sorts of situations where you are completely ignorant and need to figure things out quickly. It also makes me quite humble…best just to acknowledge the gaffe and move on I suppose. As you say, we would be paralyzed if we didn’t know how to move on quickly.

  2. Ha! your paragraph in “self-defense” made me laugh out loud. It reminded me a little of a Gilbert and Sullivan number. What a jolt to have been seated next to someone like that. It sounds like you acquitted yourself beautifully, as always.

    It sound sso beautiful up there. I have never visited, just zipped through, but i was struck by the natural beauty. I loved seeing your photos, and you are right to be proud of that first one. What a wonderful mood it evokes, and the yellow glow of the light is truly beautiful. I am glad you had a getaway from the hustle and bustle of Rome.

    1. Thank you Adri. I am drawing a blank — what is the Gilbert and Sullivan number? It was a bit of a jolt, and I don’t think I acquitted myself beautifully — let’s just say I muddled through (and let’s hope he doesn’t read blogs). It is stunningly beautiful there and I am always amazed at all the natural treasures (as well as cultural treasures) Italy has. I am glad you liked the photo — your opinion is important to me because you are such a good photographer. As I mentioned in another comment reply, I never play with filters or enhance lighting on my photos — as a journalist I feel it is important to show it as it is.

    1. Thank you Mary Jane for adding me to you recommended blog list, that is so kind of you. I am not always supportive enough of other people’s blogs because between work and kids I sometimes don’t find the time, but I will make more of an effort. And yes, do go to Lake Como next spring. I would like to go back myself.

  3. Great blog post. I enjoy when you use Italian vernacular sayings like brutta figura and pezzi grossi. The photos are great. I especially like the phantom and St. Francis. Photo journalism should always have untouched photos. It’s too easy these days to enhance photos with color saturation, etc. That’s fine for art pieces, but for journalism, if it looks too good to be true, it probably is enhanced. No fair!

    1. Thank you for your comment Barbara. I have decided I am going to be sticking more Italian into my posts because it comes so naturally to me now. I am glad you like the photos. I am very strict on the question of enhancing. I NEVER do it. I guess it is the journalist in me, but I want to see things as they really are and show it to others that way. That is why I am so happy about my photo of the line of trees — that is exactly how it was, it was getting towards dusk and the light was what you see in the photo.

  4. Lago di Como is on my ever-growing list of places to see while we live in Italy. Maybe next September…. I usually just try to get a photo that might illustrate a point in my blog or jog my memory of a lovely time. Once in awhile one gets a real gem, like your photo of the tree-lined lane. Thanks for the inspiration!

  5. Gorgeous photos, especially the top one, the avenue of trees. I always end up with pictures of my thumb. Will be leaving for Puglia Oct 1, and will try to take pix, but won’t be up to your standard! The story of your dinner is wonderful! Haven’t we all stuck our best pumps in our mouths at some gala, and wished we could erase the tape and start over? You handled it well. Lovely that you and Gustavo got away to a posh place, had beauty around you and occasions to rise to. Indeed, a bel paese – I’ll be in another part of it, soon –
    Just sent you a very interesting article by two Harvard faculty about Pope F’s interview – he’s fascinated everyone!

  6. Wow, talk about nostalgia. I have twice been invited and attended week long conferences at the Rockefeller Conference Center in Bellagio. What an incredible experience. Of course every thing is provided and is of the highest quality, food, delicious, accomodations in little villas, luxurious, and setting incomparable. You are supposed to think great thoughts but what you really want to do is get out and wander the grounds. Great post but the best is the memories it brought back.

    L/D

    1. Sounds marvelous — what do I have to do to get myself an invite to the Rockefeller Conference Center in Bellagio. I will promise to think great thoughts the whole time. Or maybe you could get yourself another invite and I will come visit you!!

  7. The avenue of trees does have a touch of the surreal about it Trisha but I love the phantom shot.
    Nice use of The Rule of Thirds in both – intentional or not ;) Keep looking for those small details. There is so much beauty that we often overlook.

    1. Thank you Margaret — I wasn’t that aware of the Rule of Thirds, but now that I just googled it, I know what you are talking about. I guess I was doing that a bit instinctively because I know when we are filming TV interviews we try to avoid having the person interviewed straight front and center, but off slightly to one side with either a bookshelf, news-stand or something relevant to the story in the other part of the picture. My photography needs a lot of work, but I am enjoying it.

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