This cow has got it all figured out. August is a time for chilling out and chewing the cud. That is exactly what I’ve been doing for the past week in the Italian Alps. When I talk to Americans and other non-Italians about Italy, most people are interested in Tuscany, Sicily, the Amalfi Coast, the Cinque Terre or Sardinia, but no one ever asks me about the Italian Alps. Well, they are spectacular with breath-taking views, alpine forests, glacial lakes, Swiss-style villages, perfectly kept with colorful flowers in over-flowing window-boxes.
After strenuous climbs (or easy Funicular rides) one arrives at charming mountain refuges where they serve up local food from canerdeli in broth, goulash, eggs and speck, local cheeses and salamis, to chocolatey sacher tortes, and fried dough with a syrupy raspberry sauce on top.
We drove up from Rome where the temperature was 40 degrees Celsius (104 degrees Fahrenheit) to San Martino di Castrozza, nestled under the stunning rocky Pale group of peaks, where the temperature most days was 20 degrees Celsius ( 68 degrees Fahrenheit). The days were marked by the gentle ringing of the bells on the cows grazing in a nearby field and the more pronounced pealing of the bells in the stone steeple on the church down the street.
While hiking mountain trails my teenage children seemed to find an unexpected unity as they faced together the challenges of nature rather than bicker about the TV channel, cell phone, or ipad.
Whether it is going up or heading down, they were working together.
In the past we’ve tried to spend two weeks at the seaside in Sardinia and two weeks in the mountains, but this year my husband Gustavo declared that “I have so few hairs left on my head I will burn my brain out at the beach!”
I don’t think there is any worry that Professor Piga will burn out his brain any time soon, but the mountains are, nevertheless, a wise choice. They allow a stressed-out working Mamma time to relax and reflect. Actually I found that hiking some mountain trails was extremely effective at clearing my mind. My endless, anxiety-inducing TO-DO list shriveled down to one item. DON’T FALL OFF THE TRAIL.
My father — who turns 80 in a few months– and has scaled peaks from the White Mountains to the Himalayas (see blog post Keep Your Eye on the Ball), joined us this year. He couldn’t get enough of it and there was no holding him back.
Your intrepid blogger cannot manage to go anywhere without tripping over some trouble. As I was circling an Alpine lake near the Colbricon Refuge, I nearly stumbled over a viper who rapidly jerked up and slithered into some nearby shrubbery. After I jumped a meter (roughly a yard), and let out a rather un-heroic shriek, my journalistic instincts kicked in and I took a photo of the little killer-creature.
My advice to any hikers in the Italian Alps, wear long socks and look twice before sitting on the rocks.
And while I am doling out advice, if you are in the Boston area on vacation, watch who you take an iced coffee from. (See Blog Post Dead End In Lincoln)
And finally, make sure you leave plenty of time to kick-back, relax and chew the cud.
. . now that is my sort of post about my sort of country – a to-do when we venture back to Italy. A number of years ago I read about a fantastic National Park up that way that has been used as an example of how these things should be done.
Ha!! I knew it!! I was thinking just that as I wrote it “this is an Alan Fenn kind of post.” And a couple of times as I was hiking I thought of the way you do your posts. I took some nice close-up photos of flowers, but then did not include them. I took a couple of some rare flowers called the Stella Alpina that I found in the Alpine Meadow in the photo at the end. I heard some other hikers that passed becoming ecstatic to see the Stella Alpina– apparently it has become rare recently. (It might be Edelweiss in English, but I am not sure). Speaking of Edelweiss, hiking in the Italian Alps often reminded me of the mountain scenes from “The Sound of Music.”
I love the photos – they tell a story in themselves. And I love the words, about the cow, about Gustavo, about your Dad, about the villages and beauty in the Alps -now I have another place on my list of to-do visits – and I love it that you are thinking about Steven Rakes, and the world of the news! Thanks for taking us on vacation.
I wish I could take everyone on vacation in the Italian Alps with me– I swear the cool, clear air and spectacular views bring out the best in everybody.
Great photos! Wish we could have been there too!!
I am going to get all of you to the Italian Alps sooner or later Sis!!
I love seeing your family together! And how cool that your dad, as intrepid as ever, is along for the trip. Talk about “up where the air is clear,” wow, but surely this is it. It is gorgeous. I have been through the Alps on a train, and I remember looking out and being awestruck by the beauty. Thanks for a wonderful article.
Someday you must come back and visit the Italian Alps. I know your first stop in Italy will be in Abruzzo, but after that you must see the Alps.
That looked like some scary curve in the trail, as you clutched the side of the mountain. yikes. I’ve been lucky enough to vacation in that part of Italy many times, mostly in winter for skiing, but I have also been there in summer, when it provides such a respite from the frenzy of daily life. How fabulous that your dad is so fit and able to join you. What memories for you and your kids.
That was a bit of a scary curve! Yes, the Dolomites are also fabulous in the winter for skiing and other outdoor sports. My husband was raised as a downhill skier and loves taking the lifts to the top –enjoying the views and the refuges– and then charging back down the mountains. I was raised as a cross-country skier and enjoy the gentle, tranquil trails in the valleys with the peace and quiet of the woods. Luckily there is all of the above in the Dolomites.
I haven’t yet been to Italy, and it is now on my to-visit list, after seeing your stunning photos! Although I don’t think I could cope with the mountain trails or the viper, I could enjoy lying about in the sunshine (and of course the food and wine!)
Well there is plenty of sunshine to lie about in in Italy — so come on over!!!
Just wonderful to see photos of you all having such a great time together. We live in Valle Pellice and it is spectacular and yes lovely and cool this time of year. I can so relate to your adventures even the snake, lol
those cows really have got it right xxx
ciao bella
lisa
I’m telling you these cows do have it all figured out. I think I am going to go put a bell around my neck and sack out in a field for a while and enjoy the view!!
glad you got to enjoy the alps trisha. We go every summer, the last three years to Selva. It is my favorite part of Italy. The beauty is stunning and no matter how many times you go back you never, ever tire of it. Great about your Dad. That is impressive.
enjoy the rest of August before it is back to work.
So true!! I don’t think I could ever tire of it.