The claws of the Camorra Mafia are sinking into the soft decadent flesh of Rome, easing their way deeper and making it impossible for the eternal city to break free. With confidence and impunity, the Contini clan of the Camorra has set up camp in the heart of the historic center of Rome, taking positions around the Italian “palazzi di potere” (palaces of power), the Senate, Parliament and Prime Minister’s office and within spitting distance of famed historic sights like Piazza Navona and the Pantheon according to police. The Camorra has been moving in for two decades now and Italian law enforcement is finally trying to act.
A little background here. The most well-known Italian Mafia is the Sicilian Mafia known as the “Cosa Nostra”, made famous by “The Godfather” movies. Then there is the less-known but probably most powerful and widespread Italian Mafia group, the ‘Ndrangheta, the Calabrian Mafia, with its base in the toe of Italy’s boot. The ‘Ndrangheta runs international drug-trafficking operations, has a foothold in Latin America and has spread its base to northern Italy and other parts of Europe. The ‘Ndrangheta gained world-wide notoriety after the Duisburg, Germany massacre in August 2007 when in a vendetta between two of the clans, six men were shot and killed outside a pizzeria in Germany.
Finally, the Camorra Mafia is the Mafia based around Naples. The Camorra was made famous by Italian investigative-journalist- turned-author Roberto Saviano’s book “Gomorrah” (later made into a movie) showing how the Camorra clans dominate business in the Campania region around Naples. Among other enterprises, the Camorra has a total grip on the garbage disposal in the area and has caused major problems to the region by illegal disposing of toxic waste and blocking all garbage collection when challenged.
For as long as I have been in Italy (20 years), Romans I know have been fretting about the Camorra moving up the coast from Naples to Rome (a two hour drive away). People would point to restaurants and say, “that’s a Camorra front for sure, can’t you see, no one is ever in there,” and someone else would say, “you can tell the Camorra a kilometer away, they drive those huge SUVs and always wear designer clothes.” But it always seemed like idle chatter, there was never anything concrete to prove it.
Then this past Wednesday Romans were awakened by the sound of helicopters buzzing overhead. At dawn law enforcement forces from the police, carabinieri (military police) and finance police were moving in on restaurants, coffee shops, and delivering arrest warrants. My colleague, cameraman Luigi Navarra, went to check out Ristorante Ciro, just a stone’s throw from the Italian Senate and brought back video of Carabinieri military police busily working inside, we found similar situations at other restaurants in the area.
A police statement said they had seized 27 pizzerias and coffee shops around the city including Zio Ciro, Da Ottavio, Ristorante Ciro, Osteria Della Vite, and Zio Mario to name a few, and issued 90 arrest warrants. One Neapolitan businessman plunged to his death from the balcony of his Rome apartment after police arrived with an arrest warrant.
I rushed over to the Carabinieri’s headquarters at lunch-time for a brief interview with the provincial commander Salvatore Luongo. He told me that they were dealing with the Contini Clan of the Camorra and that, “This Neapolitan family has been putting roots down in Rome since the 1990s, and is laundering its money through these pizzerias that were using a double accounting system.”
While police in Rome were conducting their activities, similar operations were underway in both Naples and Florence. Police confiscated gas stations, beauty centers, and restaurants and for a total of 250 million euro in assets. Law enforcement officials said these places were being used to launder the Camorra’s money from drug-trafficking, loan-sharking and extortion.
This brings me to another topic, the Italian movie nominated for an Oscar for the Best Foreign Film, “La Grande Bellezza” or “The Great Beauty.” It is an intellectual film by Italian Director Paolo Sorrentino that shows Rome in all its breath-taking beauty and frivolous decadence. In a bow to Italian move-making legend Federico Fellini, Sorrentino takes the viewer on an awe-inspiring tour of the city with a amusing look at a range of deeply flawed characters.
I saw the movie twice to try to understand it better and still haven’t gotten a grip on it, but I think its central figure, the narcissistic, hedonistic Jep Gambardella seems symbolic of Rome, a brilliant and talented man who is far too lazy to change. He would prefer to enjoy life and rely on the past glory of a successful first novel. Jep has a luxurious Roman apartment with a spectacular roof terrace with a view of the Coliseum where he holds outrageous, extravagant parties.
A handsome, silent man moves in next door and installs a elaborate security system and refuses Jep’s attempt at chit chat in the elevator.
Towards the end of the film, Jep looks up from his terrace to see the police from the anti-Mafia unit arresting the mysterious man. Jep asks him, “who are you?” and the Mafioso responds, “A hard-working man. One who, while you play the artist and have fun with your friends keeps this country going. I keep this country going, but many people haven’t understood that yet.”
That is a grim take on Italian society, but given the events this past week, I am starting to wonder if it may not be so far from the truth.
. . money laundering – drug trafficking? Illegal? Tell that to HSBC or the CIA! And, how are politicians and bent coppers to make a dishonest buck if these people are put out of business?
I agree Alan — there a lot of politicians and bent coppers that have benefited from the Mafia in Italy. CIA? HSBC? DrugS? Arms? I am sure there is a lot to write about there too, but I will leave that post up to you– got enough going on in my backyard here.
This Mafia information is so distressing. I am sorry to hear about Rome, but not in the least surprised. What always strikes me when people talk about the Mafia is the glow that comes over their faces, almost as if they have been seduced by the entire idea of it. Why? Is it the idea of wielding such power that people like? To my eye, Mafiosi are corrupt and cruel people, lawless souls who give not a whit for the common man. All the talk about “keeping the neighborhood safe” is nothing but a cover for their vain existence, a form of extortion all its own. “Keep quiet about our evil doings, and you will be safe.” Yet somehow, many Americans love them, respect them even. Maybe they have watched “The Godfather” too many times… I can not grasp it.
I can not wait to see this film. The party part surely does sound Fellini-esque. And, sadly, I think there is some truth, and wisdom, in the finalwords of the quiet neighbor.
This Mafia information is so distressing. I am sorry to hear about Rome, but not in the least surprised. What always strikes me when people talk about the Mafia is the glow that comes over their faces, almost as if they have been seduced by the entire idea of it. Why? Is it the idea of wielding such power that people like? To my eye, Mafiosi are corrupt and cruel people, lawless souls who give not a whit for the common man. All the talk about “keeping the neighborhood safe” is nothing but a cover for their vain existence, a form of extortion all its own. “Keep quiet about our evil doings, and you will be safe.” Yet somehow, many Americans love them, respect them even. Maybe they have watched “The Godfather” too many times… I can not grasp it.
I can not wait to see this film. The party part surely does sound Fellini-esque. And, sadly, I think there is some truth, even wisdom, in the final words of the quiet neighbor.
I agree with you Adri — the Mafia has been glorified, perhaps idealized by films like “the Godfather” – even though putting bloody horse heads in people’s beds isn’t so glamorous. If you ever get a chance to see “Gomorrah”, the film on the Camorra based on Saviano’s book, that is a very realistic and sad look at what the Camorra has done in the Naples area. Also, I will be curious to hear what you think of “La Grande Bellezza>”
Ciao, Trisha
Breaking news we have not heard over here – we are too busy with our own scandal I think, asking whether it can be true that the Governor in NJ was strong-arming people in politics, and using federal disaster relief money to do it, as well as interfering with the GW bridge traffic. Any, WHY? So far we don;t know if this will be swept under the rug or not. Your situation is at last being brought out. And was Berlusconi part of the system that protected this?
This is a brave post, and well written. Bravo. Or should I say, Brava!!!
Oh my gosh, the Chris Christie scandal is unbelievable!! Thanks for your compliments on the post. I would not point a finger at Berlusconi specifically on the mafia business. What I can say is that the mafia –whether it is Cosa Nostra, ‘Ndrangheta or Camorra –has historically had deep ties to politicians. In some towns in the south they have had to dissolve town councils because they’ve become completely infiltrated by the Mafia clans. The Mafia starts by buying off the local politicians and then work their way up to the top.
I guess I’d have to say that it’s kind of depressing to know that I have contributed to Ciro’s actions. It certainly is not my favorite pizza in Rome (I prefer crispy crust), but it was very convenient to my hotel when I didn’t feel like walking very far or when it was raining. There were certainly always a lot of people there, and the food was good.
I have been to Rome probably 13 times over 50 years and have stayed in the same place for the last five or six times. I even put a picture of Ciro’s Christmas tree in my 2010 Christmas letter because I like the decorations–miny pizzas, cheeses, etc.
Ah well!
Maybe when “La Grande Bellezza” is available here in the US, I’ll watch it for the scenery and not the “grim take,” which I don’t like any more than you do.
I am glad to have found this blog.
Joan — I can’t believe you actually ate there and put their photo in your Christmas letter. It is pretty funny. You just never know do you. The last thing you would have thought when you were biting into that pizza was that somehow you could be helping the Mafia. And as you pointed out, you were not the only one — many of those restaurants are always full. Apparently the people involved in the day to day handling of the restaurants are just “presta-nome” as they say in Italian so they give their name and time to the actual restaurant side of the business but are kept “clean” from all the illegal aspects.